Back in Paris

Jan 11th
The trip to Portugal is now officially over. It’s funny how the trip came full circle—it was raining in Paris when we left and it was raining today when we got back (although today it’s warmer by 10® Celsius , thankfully). After a week of absolutely frigid temperatures in Paris, the weeklong break in Portugal was a nice respite. It was odd to see Lisboans walk around bundled up like it was Lillihammer instead of Lisbon. My feeling was that of a bizarre longing, a collective of wishful thinkers wanting it to be cold. It was like playing dress up when you were a child. You couldn’t experience the real thing so you might as well pretend. They pretended better than anyone I’ve seen. In a t-shirt, I was walking past frilly men in decorative scarves and giant coats and women in furry boots and chic little snow hats.
I’ve been thinking of Lisboa along the lines of an Austin in Europe. Perhaps it’s not the most accurate comparison, perhaps I’m searching for similarities—pointing at things without context. There does seem to be similarities (notably the weather, size, and age demographics). My “piece de resistance*” is the cuisine even though it’s an obvious paradox (the sea v. the ranch). The similarity is not the substance of the cuisine but in who dislikes each of them…Morgane. Lisboa, like Austin, has a very vibrant restaurant scene that we wholeheartedly enjoyed…as long as we steered clear of Portuguese. And likewise in Austin, Morgane loves the restaurants….but not BBQ or Tex-Mex. What sounds better: “Austin: The Lisbon of America” or “Lisboa: the Austin of Europe”
(*Is that a real phrase? Am I confusing it with “plat de resistance?” In a completely unrelated setting and argument I said it and got strange French looks. I hope someone can help me out on this.)

Just before we touched down at Orly I finished “The Impossible Country,” Brian Hall’s account of his travels through Yugoslavia just before its disintegration in the early 90s. Excellent book. If you are remotely interested in the Balkans or if you are simply in need of an engaging and insightful read, I urge you to check it out (I was luckily enough to find it on the bookshelves at the Casa de San Bernard, courtesy of Ms. Agnes Sekowski the week before I left). Though it was published 15 years ago it’s a timeless narrative whose insights into the people and politics of the region are still accurate, applicable, and important (more so even now with Kosovo’s formal independence looming). My plug is now officially over.

Morgane’s brother left for a two month journey through India. We’re staying in his apartment while he is gone. So for those in need or want of an address for me, I now have one. Just drop me a comment on here or an email me and I’ll get it to you. Now that I’m “back” in Paris, my stay is officially under way. For a sedentary person like me, these first two weeks have been a whirlwind.